Soaring above the sweeping green plateaus of the Kaibab National Forest in Arizona, is serene until the pilot cranks up Kenny Loggins’ “Danger Zone” in my headset.
Suddenly, the ground drops away as the aircraft from Papillon Helicopters crests the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The forest floor vanishes into a vast chasm of red, cream and brown stone, dotted with pockets of green shrubbery. My heart leaps, I’m excited and terrified at once, unable to breathe as the canyon embraces me. I set my camera aside and marvel.
Lodging and village
As we angle toward the North Rim, the blackened scars of the Dragon Bravo Fire and reminders of the Grand Canyon Lodge it destroyed spread below. Melancholy lingers until we bank closer to the shimmering Colorado River, its beauty uplifting.
The pilot, switching effortlessly between English and French for an international family onboard, points out landmarks as sunlight dances off the water.
Back on solid ground, the adventure continues at The Squire at Grand Canyon in Tusayan. The property makes an ideal base for families with outdoor and indoor pools, a splash pad, hot tubs, a fitness center, a bowling alley and an arcade.
At the Squire at Grand Canyon, guests can grab an electric bike and explore the town or forest pathways before unwinding at The Squire Pub + Social or enjoying a meal at the Desert Lounge. From the hotel, the South Rim serves as your basecamp for adventure, whether that means lacing up your hiking boots, hopping on a mule, or using the park’s shuttles to reach a scenic overlook. You can catch the Grand Canyon’s South Rim shuttle at designated stops within the park, such as the Grand Canyon Visitor Center.
For those interested in river rafting, trips must be booked in advance. The nearest half-day launch point is at Horseshoe Bend, located near Page, Arizona, which is a scenic 2.5-hour drive away.
The canyon holds stories not only in its cliffs, but also in the Grand Canyon Village Historic District, which has been listed in the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. Architect Mary Colter, working with the Fred Harvey Company, pioneered the “National Park Service Rustic” style of stone and timber blending seamlessly with the landscape.
Today, the Fred Harvey History Room at the South Rim preserves that legacy, with displays of early 20th-century tourism: photos, dishes, souvenirs and tales of the legendary “Harvey Girls.” Browsing the collection feels like stepping back in time.
At sunset, I drive along the rim. The canyon shifts from fiery orange to dusky rose, then deepens into purple shadows. Bats dart across the sky as stars scatter above. My camera doesn’t do the scenery justice. The wind seems to carry the day into the night.
For evening entertainment, Tusayan offers more than restaurants and souvenir shops. At the IMAX theater, “Grand Canyon’s vastness, geology, Native American history and river explorations. With crisp projection, a 12-channel sound system and translation headsets in multiple languages, the 35-minute film is an immersive way to deepen your understanding before heading back into the park. The visitor center surrounding the theater also provides maps, park entrance tickets and the Explorer’s Café.
Saddle up
The next morning, I traded my helicopter headset for horse hooves at Grand Canyon Trail Rides. The horses are assigned by the friendly guides based on the visitors’ skill level. I found the horses are gentle and patient.
The sun shines through the towering ponderosa pines in the Kaibab National Forest as we wind along a well-worn path. The rides offer a grounded way to explore this timeless landscape. The sounds, scenery, smells and the feeling of being in nature, in a place that takes one back in time, there is nothing like it.
